At the end of the world

Ushuaia, Argentina – 22.-26. December 2017

The title of this post may not be the most original, but Ushuaia is known for being the city at the end of the world, so it comes out pretty automatically. The city itself is nothing particular: mainly there are one floor buildings, and you can find more or less the same stores you can find in the rest of the country. But what make worth the trip to Ushuaia is not the city itself, but what the surroundings have to offer. Unfortunately I had to reduce my stay in Ushuaia because of the strike I told in a previous post. Still I was able to visit the National Park, the Laguna Esmeralda and the Glacier Martial (many thanks to Ilario that lent me the GPS to keep track of my trekking and – most important – to not lose myself at the end of the world, literally).

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

In the National Park I followed the Costera Trail, the track that follow for a good part the coast.

Parque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoLaguna Esmeralda

This track leads to a lagoon with a wonderful view on the glacier that supply it with pure and colorful water.

Laguna EsmeraldaLaguna EsmeraldaLaguna EsmeraldaLaguna EsmeraldaGlacier Martial

On the way up to the glacier my host Hugo brought me with his car until the basis of the glacier, that in winter is also a sky track. On the way back I walked home to Ushuaia following the main road. (The tracking of this track is manual because I messed up with the GPS’ battery).

Glacier MartialGlacier MartialGlacier Martial 

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Song of the post: Hannes Wader – Heute hier, morgen dort (today here, tomorrow there)

Manchmal träume ich schwer
und dann denk ich,
es wär Zeit zu bleiben und nun
was ganz andres zu tun.
So vergeht Jahr um Jahr
und es ist mir längst klar,
dass nichts bleibt, dass nichts bleibt,
wie es war.

Sometimes I dream hard
and then I think it would be
time to stay and suddenly to
do something totally different.
Thus years are passing
and I’ve understood long time ago
that nothing remains, nothing remains
like it used to be.

Summer in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires, Argentina – 13.-22. December 2017

21. December first day of winter. That’s what I am used to. But also 21. December first day of summer. You never think about that, but when you welcome a new season, another half of the world welcome exactly the opposite. I guess I will remember this 2017 for being the first year in my life in which I welcomed two summer and no winter. For one that was looking for more warmth, also from a meteorological point of view, it sounds like a mission accomplished.

Park Plaza de las Naciones UnidasIf I try to summarize in a sentence how I felt in Buenos Aires, I couldn’t say anything else that it was like being home. Although “home” is a complex concept by itself. What is “home” for me? Berlin? Arezzo? Or maybe Milano? And what is “home” more in general? Maybe home is just a place where you feel comfortable. And yes, Buenos Aires for me has been that kind of place.

I stayed again in a Airbnb, this time hosted by the super welcoming Graciela. The flat and the room themselves was very comfortable.  And the location was in Recoleta, that is one on of the nicest city district. In Recoleta you can find a historical cemetery where a lot of famous Argentinian are buried. The cemetery itself is not particularly spectacular, it consist mainly in family’s tombs. Still there are some nice monumental graves worth of a visit. In the cemetery is buried also Evita Peron, so it is a must see location for Eva’s fans.

Evita Peron's bury place in Recoleta's cemeteryAt walkable distance there is the nice park in Plaza de las Naciones Unidas, where I went more than once during or after the visits in the city. The park is very calm and green, with a lot of people but still pretty silent. In its center there is a big sculpture, the Floralis Generica. It consist in a flower that open its petals according to the quantity of lights that it receives. I loved being there and relax. I love going at parks, under the blue sky, and even sleep. It’s one of the things I need to remember to do more often.

Floralis Generica at Plaza de las Naciones UnidasMoving to the city center, I was impressed how much the city looks like an European capital. Mainly on the roads that departs from Plaza de Mayo, it is possible to see buildings in white marble and neoclassical style. I may have been influenced by some Guccini’s song about Argentina, or by a language that I can easily understand (but not yet speak). Still just after some days spent in Buenos Aires I was feeling completely at ease. And yes, it was a good feeling.

Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña from Plaza de MayoAnother part that I really loved was the area of Puerto Madero. It consist of a touristic harbor surrounded by renovated warehouses that today hosts (expensive) restaurants and bars. Also this area is one of the most modern in the city, with a lot of buildings hosting the main world’s corporations.

Puerto MaderoThe last day I also had the occasion to visit the MALBA, Museum of Latin American Art. Right now next to the permanent exhibition  it is possible to visit one about Modern Mexico, including some works from Frida Kahlo.

MALBA - Josè Clemente Orzoco - El DemagogoThinking to the other cities I saw during this trip, Buenos Aires looks more like a city in which one could think to live long term. It makes me think to Madrid, a city that I visited only during work trips but that still gave me good vibes.

I was supposed to leave Buenos Aires three days ago, but because of a strike I had to extend my stay. If no more strikes will blocks my plans, the next step is the Tierra del Fuego. With Patagonia I consider it the main course of my trip and yeah: I can’t wait to be there. Stay tuned!

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Song of the post: Patty Pravo – Una mattina d’estate

vorrei che piccola così
bastasse sempre al cuore mio
la vita che riscalda
una mattina d’estate

I would like that, so small,
would be enough for my hearth
the life that is warmed up
by a summer’s morning

Bonus track Montevideo

Montevideo, Uruguay – 20. December 2017

Initially I was supposed to travel from Buenos Aires to the Tierra del Fuego on the 19. December. Unfortunately because of a strike I wasn’t able to take my flight, so I had to extend my stay for some additional days. I was actually pretty upset, but generally I tend to understand the reasons of the workers, so well, I could only make the best of it and book a one day trip to Montevideo, in Uruguay.

Plaza de IndependenciaMontevideo was worth of this short visit, even though the part I appreciated the most has been the walk along the beach that I took while the planned itinerary was to visit some completely anonymous city mall.

Bahìa del BuceoIn general my mood during this day was pretty bad. The day before my flight was canceled, and I had to reschedule (and spend a lot of money) to make sure the trip could go on on as planned. Deciding this change of scenery has been a great way to flush my mind and be prepared to take my flight to Rio Grande tomorrow.

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Leaving São Paulo

São Paulo, Brasil – 8.-13. December 2017

It’s time to leave São Paulo. It has been an unusual stay. I spent a lot of time laying in the bed, staying at parks and slowly tasting coffee and brigadeiros. Even if the city is less holiday-ish as Rio, I don’t think that this is the “problem”. I have to admit that my spirit was generally more melancholic and thoughtful. The good days in Rio played a role, and a role has been played by seeing pictures and videos of a magnificent Berlin under the first snow. Also the worries of being in a for me new continent are now part of the past , so there was more time for introspection, that notably is my preferred self inflicted punishment.

My last coffee & brigadeiroOne of the best thing I did during the stay in São Paulo was joining the guys from the Tamanduás-Bandeira, the first gay rugby club in Brazil. It was the first time I was training with a brother club and I really loved to meet these guys, that are launching right now this first inclusive team. After the training we went out for the most classic after-training beer, and I also had the occasion to join some of them at a nice party with a lot of music from the ’90.

 

Differently from Rio, São Paulo is well known for its nightlife more than for its points of interests. One of the main area for night life is the Rua Augusta, the alternative area of the city. There you can breath an atmosphere not far away from some from Berlin, particulary Neukölln.

When it comes about tourist’s hotspot, the area of Avenida Paulista offers lots of different activities to do.

Avenida PaulistaThe one that deserve the most is in my opinion the MASP museum. In the day I visited it there was an exhibition about the history of sexuality. Several pieces of arts, from the very famous Saint Sebastian painting from the Perugino to more modern photographic – and way more provocative – pictures, show how sexuality is or can be part of arts, also in form that are not immediately obvious. It has been a very good occasion to think again about the limit between arts and provocation that end in itself. Of course I don’t have an answer, but I know that it is thanks to some provocations from the past that I changed my point of view about several sexually sensitive topic, and I believe that we – as humanity – are still far away from having an healthy relationship with sexuality. So, well. Welcome provocation!

MASP - History of Sexuality - LenghtsAltogether I can’t say that São Paulo is a must-visit location during a trip in South America. Still for me it has been a very good moment to take the very first break from myself, taking time to just stay at home watching the traffic from the window and letting the thoughts flow in me. Also a very good spark for some consideration happened while we were having a beer with the guys from the rugby team. We were talking about tourisms in Brazil, and specifically about how it relates with the Favelas. I deliberately ignored any offered tours to visit these parts of the cities, not because I am not interested, but because I would feel like a zoo visitor that look at his counterparts like animals. One of the team member “accused” me to not having any interest in the favelas because I am a rich man and I don’t want to deal with poverty. That’s actually a point of view that I never considered, also because I never saw me as a “rich men”. Of course I am aware I am very lucky for being born in a generally wealthy part of the world, but this “accusation” was for me a bit of a shock, forcing me to reconsider both what “rich” mean from a more global point of view, but also insinuating the doubt that I was actually ignoring poverty because it makes me uncomfortable. So again I don’t have answers for this new questions, but a suggestion came directly from the guy that “accused” me: there are organization in the favelas that promotes an healthy improvement of the people’s life, also offering cultural programs for tourists/”rich men” that are interested in supporting the people living there. It is something that definitely deserves my attention, and I want to experience more about this before I leave this continent.

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Song of the post: Francesco Guccini – Gulliver

Nelle lunghe ore d’ inattività e di ieri
che solo certa età può regalare…

In his long hours of rest and memories
that only a certain age may give…

Rio, cidade maravillosa

Rio De Janeiro, Brasil – 2.-8. December 2017

If the satisfaction for the first stop set the standard for the other ones in a long travel, we may have a problem. Honestly I booked my stay in Rio mainly because it was the ticket to South America with the lower cost. Since I don’t speak a single word of Portuguese, initially I wasn’t even considering Brazil as a main destination for this trip. Well, I am incredibly grateful to KLM for offering that price, when in that sad afternoon of the last June I suddenly decided to book the flight.

My visit in Rio was based in Ipanema, one of the most touristic and cool city’s neighborhood. I booked my preferred solution: a room in a flat through Airbnb. As usual I was not disappointed. Vitor & Carlos hosted me in their cosy flat, being always available for any question, but also leaving me all the space I was looking for.

Ipanema

Ipanema is a cool place to be, with its long white beach full of any kind of people. It is known that Rio may be a dangerous place, but I think that with some caution there is nothing for being really worried – until one stays around the main touristic hot spots. So I enjoyed my afternoons on Ipanemas’ sand, even if the weather wasn’t that super sunny as expected. At the very end of Ipanema there is the Pedra do Arpoador. From there it is possible to see stunning sunsets. I went there two times, unfortunately I wasn’t able to see the sunset till the end because of some clouds. Still it was stunning – I can only imagine what would have been with a clear sky!

Sunset from the Pedra de ArpoadorNext to Ipanema is the very famous Copacabana. I went a couple of time for a stroll along Copacabana, and even if its curved layout make it super scenographic, I still prefere the energy from Ipanema.

Statue to De Andrade in CopacabanaThe second day I decided to go for a guided tour around the city. We went to the Tijuana Forest, the biggest urban forest in the world, to have also a look to the city from the Chinese View. It is a bit strange to find this Chinese building in the middle of a Brazilian forest. The history behind is that Chinese farmer were working in that area, and that’s the reason for the name of this sightseeing spot.

Chinese View
After the Forest it was time to visit Santa Teresa, a neighborhood that looks completely different from any other.  Small streets, trams still running, nice murals, altogether gives a more relaxed and somehow retro atmosphere. Between Santa Teresa and Lapa we can find the Escadria Selarón (Selarón Steps).  Jorge Selarón covered these steps with small coloured tiles from allover the world. I was even able to find tiles from different tuscan cities (but not Arezzo)!

Tiles from Florence in the Escadria SelarónIn that day we went also to visit the Christ the Redeemer, but unfortunately the statue was almost completely covered by the fog. I have been able to see the Christ later, but of course from greater distance.

The next two days I had a more deep and relaxed tour around some other parts of the city. Vic brought me to some places that I guess aren’t the main destination for the mass tourism.

Initially Downtown Rio left me lost. One block after the other, you feel sometimes in Paris, sometimes in New York, because of the mix of styles adopted by the city in different periods.

Downtown RioFrom there we went along the sea from the Praça Quinze de Novembro, till the Museu do Amanhã (Museum of Tomorrow), where thanks to several multimedia installation we are told how our planet is a living entity, and how we are jeopardizing its (and our) existence. I already saw these concept being expressed in a similar way at the Expo in Milan, particularly at the O.N.U. Pavillon. What impressed me in this case is the space given to the reasons for which we should fight to save the planet (and ourselves). There is a room full of pictures depicting everything make us human at the museum, and again what stay in the bright spot are emotions and feelings.

Museo do AmanhãAfter a stroll behind the seaport’s warehouses and their murales it was time to come back to Lapa and having lunch in one of its characteristic restaurants. It is again a different neighborhood, where small street and old buildings give you a completely different atmosphere from the one you can breath around the modern building of the Museum of Tomorrow.

saudade é amor, te sigo esperandoIn the afternoon a nice and relaxing visit to the Parque Lage. In my eyes the variety of plants and the quantity of vegetation make it looks more like a botanic garden than a park itself! And after some rest in the park, the day found its ideal ending at the Pedra do Arpoador, to admire the sunset on Ipanema.

The next day was in Botafogo, reached after a long nice walk along the bay. From Botafogo you can have a wonderful view on the Pão de Açúcar, one of the symbols of this city. And after lunch I spent the afternoon to the beach in Ipanema. Since the day before the sunset was disturbed by the clouds I tried to give it another shot, but unfortunately I was even less lucky – but still great view!

Pão de Açúcar

My week in Rio ends with a glidering over São Conrado and the visit to the cableway to the Pão de Açúcar. These are probably the two most  spectacular things to do in Rio.

Glidering is that kind of thing that you always say “sooner or later I will do it“. Since I am in the mood of doing such things more sooner than later, it was quite automatical to decide to give it a try. Even if as usual I was pretty scared, now I don’t have the words to describe it. So if you want take a look to the video published on youtube, just to see how easily Dan turns back being a 10 years old kid.

My final visit at the top of the Pão de Açúcar was the appropriate end to my stay in Rio. The amazing view over Botafogo and the surrounding neighborhoods, the lights from the favelas and the  Christ on the top of the Corcovado are the perfect postcard for these days.

Botafogo and surroundings

While I write these words I am already arrived to the next stop, that is São Paolo. Stay tuned, and come away with Dan!

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Song of the post:  Antonio Carlos Jobin – Garota de Ipanema (Girl from Ipanema)

Goodbye to Berlin

Yes, I know. I am leaving Berlin for just two months, so talking about painful, emotional goodbyes is surely an overkill. Still there have been some goodbyes in these days.

First of all I said goodbye to my last, big professional project. It was a demanding project, that required a lot of dedication and that costed me some belly and some white hairs. But it was also the occasion to get in touch with a lot of amazing people from all around Europe. There will be another project, there will be other amazing people to meet. But it will be something other from what I experienced in the last two years.

I said goodbye to my rugby team, that right now is the thing that I have in Berlin more close to a family. The team, the game, the mates will be there when I will come back. And that’s somehow relieving.

I said goodbye to good people that I met in this absurd place that is Berlin.  People being there, everyone in their own way, when one need to feel a little less lonely in this place. And well, these kind of people are rare.  Are the kind of people that you wish will stick around your life. But here? Here nothing last. And that’s not relieving at all.

I said goodbye to my previous life. I said goodbye to the dreams that I shared together with one of these person. I said goodbye because sometimes people change. And if you decide to embrace that change, it may come out that you have a long road ahead to become the person you want to be. And that it is a road that you have to undertake alone.

Goodbye is an imprecise word, that helps to give voice to an unclear feeling. Some of my goodbyes are actually a “farewell“. Some other are just a “see you soon“. Some others lays in a limbo. Will the travel define them? It’s not an expectation. But it’s definitely a hope.


Song of the post: Andrea Bocelli – Time to say Goodbye
I dedicate this song to myself.

Time to say goodbye.
Paesi che non ho mai
veduto e vissuto con te,
adesso si li vivrò.

Time to say goodbye.
To countries I never
saw and shared with you,
now, yes, I shall experience them.