At the end of the world

Ushuaia, Argentina – 22.-26. December 2017

The title of this post may not be the most original, but Ushuaia is known for being the city at the end of the world, so it comes out pretty automatically. The city itself is nothing particular: mainly there are one floor buildings, and you can find more or less the same stores you can find in the rest of the country. But what make worth the trip to Ushuaia is not the city itself, but what the surroundings have to offer. Unfortunately I had to reduce my stay in Ushuaia because of the strike I told in a previous post. Still I was able to visit the National Park, the Laguna Esmeralda and the Glacier Martial (many thanks to Ilario that lent me the GPS to keep track of my trekking and – most important – to not lose myself at the end of the world, literally).

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

In the National Park I followed the Costera Trail, the track that follow for a good part the coast.

Parque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoLaguna Esmeralda

This track leads to a lagoon with a wonderful view on the glacier that supply it with pure and colorful water.

Laguna EsmeraldaLaguna EsmeraldaLaguna EsmeraldaLaguna EsmeraldaGlacier Martial

On the way up to the glacier my host Hugo brought me with his car until the basis of the glacier, that in winter is also a sky track. On the way back I walked home to Ushuaia following the main road. (The tracking of this track is manual because I messed up with the GPS’ battery).

Glacier MartialGlacier MartialGlacier Martial 

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Song of the post: Hannes Wader – Heute hier, morgen dort (today here, tomorrow there)

Manchmal träume ich schwer
und dann denk ich,
es wär Zeit zu bleiben und nun
was ganz andres zu tun.
So vergeht Jahr um Jahr
und es ist mir längst klar,
dass nichts bleibt, dass nichts bleibt,
wie es war.

Sometimes I dream hard
and then I think it would be
time to stay and suddenly to
do something totally different.
Thus years are passing
and I’ve understood long time ago
that nothing remains, nothing remains
like it used to be.

Summer in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires, Argentina – 13.-22. December 2017

21. December first day of winter. That’s what I am used to. But also 21. December first day of summer. You never think about that, but when you welcome a new season, another half of the world welcome exactly the opposite. I guess I will remember this 2017 for being the first year in my life in which I welcomed two summer and no winter. For one that was looking for more warmth, also from a meteorological point of view, it sounds like a mission accomplished.

Park Plaza de las Naciones UnidasIf I try to summarize in a sentence how I felt in Buenos Aires, I couldn’t say anything else that it was like being home. Although “home” is a complex concept by itself. What is “home” for me? Berlin? Arezzo? Or maybe Milano? And what is “home” more in general? Maybe home is just a place where you feel comfortable. And yes, Buenos Aires for me has been that kind of place.

I stayed again in a Airbnb, this time hosted by the super welcoming Graciela. The flat and the room themselves was very comfortable.  And the location was in Recoleta, that is one on of the nicest city district. In Recoleta you can find a historical cemetery where a lot of famous Argentinian are buried. The cemetery itself is not particularly spectacular, it consist mainly in family’s tombs. Still there are some nice monumental graves worth of a visit. In the cemetery is buried also Evita Peron, so it is a must see location for Eva’s fans.

Evita Peron's bury place in Recoleta's cemeteryAt walkable distance there is the nice park in Plaza de las Naciones Unidas, where I went more than once during or after the visits in the city. The park is very calm and green, with a lot of people but still pretty silent. In its center there is a big sculpture, the Floralis Generica. It consist in a flower that open its petals according to the quantity of lights that it receives. I loved being there and relax. I love going at parks, under the blue sky, and even sleep. It’s one of the things I need to remember to do more often.

Floralis Generica at Plaza de las Naciones UnidasMoving to the city center, I was impressed how much the city looks like an European capital. Mainly on the roads that departs from Plaza de Mayo, it is possible to see buildings in white marble and neoclassical style. I may have been influenced by some Guccini’s song about Argentina, or by a language that I can easily understand (but not yet speak). Still just after some days spent in Buenos Aires I was feeling completely at ease. And yes, it was a good feeling.

Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña from Plaza de MayoAnother part that I really loved was the area of Puerto Madero. It consist of a touristic harbor surrounded by renovated warehouses that today hosts (expensive) restaurants and bars. Also this area is one of the most modern in the city, with a lot of buildings hosting the main world’s corporations.

Puerto MaderoThe last day I also had the occasion to visit the MALBA, Museum of Latin American Art. Right now next to the permanent exhibition  it is possible to visit one about Modern Mexico, including some works from Frida Kahlo.

MALBA - Josè Clemente Orzoco - El DemagogoThinking to the other cities I saw during this trip, Buenos Aires looks more like a city in which one could think to live long term. It makes me think to Madrid, a city that I visited only during work trips but that still gave me good vibes.

I was supposed to leave Buenos Aires three days ago, but because of a strike I had to extend my stay. If no more strikes will blocks my plans, the next step is the Tierra del Fuego. With Patagonia I consider it the main course of my trip and yeah: I can’t wait to be there. Stay tuned!

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Song of the post: Patty Pravo – Una mattina d’estate

vorrei che piccola così
bastasse sempre al cuore mio
la vita che riscalda
una mattina d’estate

I would like that, so small,
would be enough for my hearth
the life that is warmed up
by a summer’s morning