The long sail to Puerto Montt

From Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt, Chile – 2.-5. January 2018
Puerto Montt, Chile – 5.-8. January 2018

The trickiest part while organizing my trip was finding transfers across Patagonia. There are multiple good location where to stay, each of them with pros and cons, and even more ways to get there. So it is not a surprise that I used buses, taxis, planes, passages by car and even the ferryboat. This last in particular is the transport mean I used to travel from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt.

Sailing to Puerto Montt

I was initially pretty excited of traveling across the Chilean fjords by ferry, being able to take a look to the landscapes without any rush. I have to admit that after the first day the sail have been a bit boring. Maybe the lack of a wi-fi connection on-board played a role as well in my bore (and yeah, I am not proud of this). Also the destination, Puerto Montt, didn’t offer that much to see.

Puerto Montt

Seawolves in Puerto Montt

Luckily not far from Puerto Montt is possible to visit the Chiloé Insland. This island is the homeland of the Chilotes, a local population that tend to differentiate themselves from the Chilean.  The island is incredibly green and offers nice landscapes and even a penguin colony.

Chiloé - La Pinguinera

Chiloé

Chiloé

This stop was just an interlude before the next big city on my schedule, that is Santiago. I will talk about my days there in the next post.

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Song of the Post: Billy Joel – Piano Man

sing us a song, you’re the piano man
sing us a song tonight.
well, we’re all in the mood for a melody
and you’ve got us feelin’ alright

Shall I stop to raise the bar?

Puerto Natales, Chile – 26. December 2017  – 2. January 2018

Similarly to Ushuaia, also Puerto Natales don’t has that much to offer as town itself. The weather has been slightly better than the one I found in Ushuaia, so I enjoyed more my walks along the coast, but the main course was not the town itself, but the National Park of Torres del Paine.

Torres del Paine - View from Mirador BritannicoThis Park in particular is one of them that you typically see in documentaries and travel books. It is world famous for the lot of different hiking tracks you can follow and for the three natural “towers” that are visible only from the top of one of these tracks. During my stay in Puerto Natales I also took the occasion to visit the Glacier Perito Moreno, in the argentinian Patagonia. It is a long trip by bus from Puerto Natales, but it is definitely worth of it.

Glacier Perito Moreno

There is not that much that I can say about the national parks: the pictures talks by theirselves (or at least I hope so).

Las Torres - Parque Nacional Torres del PaineI can say something about what meant to me doing these hiking alone. Hiking is maybe the less demanding activity you can do in the mountains: it is not skying, it is not climbing, for sure it is not opening new routes. But for someone that has known in his life only Lignano, Poti and some vulcans between Sicily and Lanzarote, hiking in Torres del Paine was a bit of a challenge. I don’t talk about the track to la Torres, that moreover I did with a guide. Neither the tracks from Paine Grande to Campo Italiano or to the Mirador Grey were that challenging.

Torres del Paine - Glacier GreyBut when you raise the bar again, and you decide to go a bit off-track to reach the top of a cliff to take a look to the Grey glacier while the wind whistle and the snow hit your face, or when you decide to reach the Mirador Britanico from Campo Italiano despite the muscle soreness and the fatigue of the last week, then yes, it becomes a challenge. And when on the way back from Britanico you feel like you are doing too much mistakes, when you fall down with your face in the mud because you are unfocused and put your feet on a slippery rock, and when you have still more that 7 km of walk in front of you, you ask yourself if this time you didn’t raised the bar too high. Of raising the bar, of never settle, I made a laical belief. But there is a limit to which one should, at some point, stop raising the bar? And how to recognize it? Is it failing to reach that last objective that set your limit? If so it is, every success is just another step on the road to the failure, and to the frustration. Then what to do? Just nothing? Renouncing to everything, because everything is just an illusion that will bring you up to the next failure? I am for sure not the first person in the earth having this questions in his mind. I think to Saint Francis, I think to the Tibetan Monks. I think to the hermits from yesterday and today. And I can’t stop thinking that maybe that bar should be lowered, much more than raised. Until we understand that maybe no success really matter. That nothing really matter.

Refugio Base – Torres del Paine

(manual recording)

Refugio Paine Grande – Glacier Grey

Refugio Paine Grande – Mirador Britannico

 

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Song of the post: Cristiano De André – Il cielo é vuoto (the sky is empty)

Ti accorgi che il cielo é vuoto
perché la nostra immaginazione
ha bisogno di spazio.
E’ vuoto
perché la nostra immaginazione
naviga nello spazio.
Si stacca l’anima, non fa più rumore;

puoi chiudere gli occhi, ma è vietato morire.

You realize that the sky is empty
because our imagination
require space.
It’s empty
because our imagination
fly to the space.
The soul split up, it makes no more noise;
you can close your eyes, but death is forbidden.

At the end of the world

Ushuaia, Argentina – 22.-26. December 2017

The title of this post may not be the most original, but Ushuaia is known for being the city at the end of the world, so it comes out pretty automatically. The city itself is nothing particular: mainly there are one floor buildings, and you can find more or less the same stores you can find in the rest of the country. But what make worth the trip to Ushuaia is not the city itself, but what the surroundings have to offer. Unfortunately I had to reduce my stay in Ushuaia because of the strike I told in a previous post. Still I was able to visit the National Park, the Laguna Esmeralda and the Glacier Martial (many thanks to Ilario that lent me the GPS to keep track of my trekking and – most important – to not lose myself at the end of the world, literally).

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

In the National Park I followed the Costera Trail, the track that follow for a good part the coast.

Parque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoParque Nacional Tierra del FuegoLaguna Esmeralda

This track leads to a lagoon with a wonderful view on the glacier that supply it with pure and colorful water.

Laguna EsmeraldaLaguna EsmeraldaLaguna EsmeraldaLaguna EsmeraldaGlacier Martial

On the way up to the glacier my host Hugo brought me with his car until the basis of the glacier, that in winter is also a sky track. On the way back I walked home to Ushuaia following the main road. (The tracking of this track is manual because I messed up with the GPS’ battery).

Glacier MartialGlacier MartialGlacier Martial 

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Song of the post: Hannes Wader – Heute hier, morgen dort (today here, tomorrow there)

Manchmal träume ich schwer
und dann denk ich,
es wär Zeit zu bleiben und nun
was ganz andres zu tun.
So vergeht Jahr um Jahr
und es ist mir längst klar,
dass nichts bleibt, dass nichts bleibt,
wie es war.

Sometimes I dream hard
and then I think it would be
time to stay and suddenly to
do something totally different.
Thus years are passing
and I’ve understood long time ago
that nothing remains, nothing remains
like it used to be.